[Wine] Les Français, S’il Vous Plait

by Lesley T. McHardy
Graphic Illustration by Jakob Clark
May 3, 2006

I guess that, like everyone who’s into wine, I go through phases of drinking just one kind. The longest phase for me—which is still going on, by the way—has been my love of a good, crisp, acidic white wine. In the past I have, admittedly, not gotten into a lot of French wines. Now don’t get me wrong—I love Champagne, but the everyday stuff I just haven’t flipped over, for whatever reason. (Could be because some of the reds smell like doo-doo.) Well, thanks to recent arrivals in the state of some great new stuff, I have had the opportunity to sip on some tasty Frenchy business that just may change everything for me.

For the average wine drinker (or college student), in the not-so-distant past, the term “Chablis” basically meant “box.” Unfortunately, that’s exactly what it is when you go down that isle in the wine shop, but in France, Chablis is very special. Chablis is part of the Burgundy region, and is made from 100 percent Chardonnay. These wines are quite full-bodied and full of mineral notes, and they have the potential to age very well. Often they can be chewy (meaning that they are overly round and viscous), but other times, they can be delicate and refreshing.

Such is the case with the Domaine William Fevre Chablis (about $23). This wine is tell-tale Chablis because of its almost metallic mineral quality, and its ripe apple fruit flavor. The finish is long, yet clean. Delicious.

I’ve tried a few really good rosés lately, but none from France until just the other week. The Red Bicyclette French Rosé (about $10) was a pleasant surprise in both flavor and price. Made from mostly Syrah, this wine has gobs of ripe red berry fruit flavor, with a crisp, cry finish. This one is perfect for summer. (Try a spritzer by adding a little club soda.)

Back to Burgundy, one of my new favorite Pinot Noirs is Bouchard Pere & Fils Bourgogne Rouge (about $15). This legendary wine house has been in operation for nearly 300 years, which says a lot about the quality of their wine. This great Pinot is light and lively and fresh, without a whole lot of earthiness, which is unusual for a Burgundy. What I really love about this winery is that they offer some of the finest Grand and Premier Cru wines in Burgundy, but also some of the most affordable yet delightful wines on the market.

Of course, I have to toss in a Champagne if I’m talking about French wine. My new drug of choice is Henriot Blanc Souverain Brut (about $45). Since the early 1800s, Henriot has been in the bubbly business, and what a great business it is. This past weekend, I chatted with Patrick O’Byrne, who works for this impressive company, and he told me a wonderful story about the grapes they use: Chardonnay is like a woman—soft, elegant and sophisticated. Pinot Noir is like a man—brawny, spicy and maybe a little dirty. Pinot Meunier is like an awkward, 13-year-old kid who just can’t figure out what or who they are. Therefore, Henriot uses no Pinot Meunier in their wines. This Champagne is amazing. It’s round and rich, with a little nutty quality to it, but dry and crisp on the finish. I could drink it all night … in fact, I did drink it all night.

All of these wines are tres bien and could be the start of a whole new phase for me. À votre santé.

 
posted by on 05/07/06 at 04:19 AM. [printer-friendly version]