Breaking Old Rules

by Farley Walker
Photo by Christi Vivar
October 3, 2007

Sometimes I plan a meal around the food, and sometimes I plan it around the wine. Gewürztraminer falls under the second category. It is an aromatic white wine, and the one with the most distinctive taste. The aroma and flavor are usually full of flowers (honeysuckle, jasmine and roses), tropical fruit (especially lychees) and spices (white pepper and ginger). Gewürztraminers also tend to be higher in residual sugar, making them sweeter than the average white wine, but I prefer the dry versions, such as those from the Alsace region of France. Whatever variety you choose will be a welcome companion to the following recipe.

When I want Gewürztraminer, I usually make a few specific meals. Some are Indian dishes such as Pork Vindaloo, but the consistent winner is my cross between Chinese restaurants’ beef and broccoli and the Thai dish Beef Pad See-Ew, which I used to order on a regular basis at the Thai House when it was on McDowell Road. I found the need to recreate it when I was at graduate school in Hattiesburg, and the fact that it isn’t too expensive makes it ideal for a struggling student. People are often surprised at how quickly it’s ready, and they usually love it. One friend of mine was skeptical at first, but he went back for seconds, and I am almost certain I saw him drinking the sauce.

Now, on to the wine …
One might not think to pair a white wine with a beef dish, but this is an amazing companionship. The spiciness of the wine complements the heat of the red pepper and tempers it with its sweetness. Of course, with the onions and brown sugar, there is also sweetness in the food that matches well. Recommendations for Gewürztraminer include the Thomas Fogarty (~$17), the Rosemount Traminer Riesling (~$9) and the Rieflé Gewürztraminer Classique (~$22), or one of my favorites: Navarro from Anderson Valley (which you have to buy there, as they don’t distribute, sadly).

I realize not everyone has a taste for the flavor of Gewürztraminer, so though it might be the best choice, you do have other options. A slightly sweet Riesling, such as Dr. F Wein-Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett (~$30), the Louis Guntrum “Yellow Fantasy” Spätlese (~$10) or the Guntrum Niersteiner Rehbach Spätlese (~$25) will accomplish the same contrast/commendation.

Some people may insist on having red wine with beef. In that case, you could also go with a spicy red, such as E. Guigal Hermitage (~$50) or a Ridge Zinfandel, including the Geyserville (~$33). Though the slightly sweet whites will better stimulate your palate, be open to experimentation. Get two different wines and try the recipe with both, deciding which one you prefer.

Farley’s Beef and Broccoli

1/2 pound of beef tenderloin cut into small cubes (to save money: use pre-cut stew beef, or for better quality, chop up those pre-packaged filets)
1 tbsp minced garlic
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1/2 to whole sliced onion (depending on your affinity)
Broccoli florets (if frozen, half a bag; if fresh, one head cut into pieces
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup soy sauce, to your taste
Half a bag of wide egg noodles
1/4 tsp crushed red pepper flakes

Put on a large pot of water for your noodles and turn it on high heat to get the water boiling for the noodles first, as the rest is super fast.

Sauté the garlic and onions in the oil over medium-high heat. Add a sprinkling of pepper flakes. Lower the heat to medium. When the onions start to get soft, add the brown sugar a spoon at a time. Then add a little soy sauce to help it dissolve. (Is your water boiling, yet? Add the noodles!) Continue to add sugar and soy sauce to garlic and onions. Add broccoli and stir to cover with the sauce, adding more soy. For the fresh broccoli, cook 3-4 minutes. If using frozen broccoli, let it cook a little longer (6-7 minutes).

Add the beef, scooting everything else out to the edges of your pan. Because the pieces are small, they will cook fast. Just keep turning them. The noodles should be about done by now; drain them. When the beef is cooked, toss in the noodles, grab your chopsticks and a glass of wine and enjoy.

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